Regency short stays/June HSM part 4- photos

So, thank you very much Anne for telling me to try to upload the photos using Internet explorer and not the WordPress app. Here is the very very late part 4 (and final) part of the Regency stays tutorial.

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1. I sewed the binding onto the centre front sides first of all.

2.    image

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Then I pinned the binding for the top edge of the stays. To do the ends of the straps, I gathered the fabric first and then sewed it down, as this looks much neater and holds well. The resolution of the photos aren’t great, but you get the picture. This is the most tedious part, for sure. My binding fabric’s colour is a bit too creamy, but I’m not too bothered about it.

3. Next, pin the bottom edge. Sew it. This is very straightforward.

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4. Finally, I added eyelets to the tabs and the straps. I made two eyelets on each tab, at different heights so I can adjust the length. This may not be strictly historically accurate, but I think it’s a good ideaimage

There it is, my finished pair of Regency short stays! Not yet been worn, so I will add the details for the HSM below:

The Challenge: Out of your Comfort Zone

Fabric: Three layers: linen, coutil and cotton

Pattern: I didn’t follow one specifically, just looked at extant pieces and other recreations of short stays.

Year: 1800-1810

Notions: linen thread, cotton bias binding, thicker thread for the eyelets, cord for lacing, plastic cable ties for boning, cord for cording

How historically accurate is it? Well, it’s all hand sewn, so extra bonus points there. The fabrics aren’t necessarily accurate, and the plastic boning definitely isn’t, as is the cording! However, it looks and feels quite historically accurate, so I’m going to go: 70%

Hours to complete: Many, many hours, I lost track.

First worn: not yet

Total cost: £0.00! All from stash!

Regency short stays part 5/June HSM

Okay, so I’m a bit behind on this. The binding took AGES! It took for ever, so this is a few days late. Sorry. Also, WordPress is refusing point blank to allow me to upload any pictures at all, so double sorry! You’ll have to use your imaginations for this post. I had pictures taken and everything, so I am really annoyed. 

Today’s part is the binding and final eyelets.

1. Pin binding to both the centre fronts, making sure it fits snugly. 
Sew this to the fabric. 

2. Pin your binding to the top side.

Sew this binding on. This takes ages and ages, especially if you use small, neat stitches.  

To do the tabs for the shoulder straps, I gathered the fabric first, and then sewed it down. This looks neat. 

3. Pin binding to bottom edge. This is quite a simple bit of sewing to do – just a straight line

4. I threaded a drawstring through the bottom, so I can gather it and make it sit a bit more snugly; the bottom edge on mine is a bit too big. This step is very easy to do. Take a large, blunt needle and use it to pull some string or cord through. Make sure it is long enough to come out at both ends with some to spare. 

5. I did the eyelets on the shoulder straps and the tabs after putting the binding on, so I could see how much space I had. 

I did two eyelets on the tabs, so I can adjust the length of the shoulder, if that makes sense. A picture would have come in handy, but no thanks to WordPress, so there isn’t one. I will post them later, when I can. 

6. Finally, put your stays on an lace them up. Don’t cut the lacing length to what it finishes at, if that makes sense, because you will need a lot more than you think. This is so you can loosen the laces and wriggle out of the stays without having to undo them all. 

Also make sure to lace the shoulder straps to the tabs. 

And, voila! Finished Regency short stays! 

I hope you enjoyed my series of tutorials and found them helpful. If so, comment your thoguths and what you found out while making yours. Anything I can improve on? other than pictures for this post! 

Regency Chemise photo shoot 

I was aware that this chemise needed to be seen on, so I headed outside with the cat to take some photos. The quality of the pictures isn’t great, but you get the idea. I am wearing modern underwear underneath, so lines and shadows are purely that. 

  
  
  
 

I was surprised by the cat up in the tree…

 
  

  

  

  
  

Regency short stays part 4 – June HSM

So, here it finally is: the next part to my tutorial on the Regency short stays. This time I’ve done the cording and boning, which isn’t tricky, just very time consuming. 

1. Decide where you want your boning to be placed. 

The Sense and Sensibility instructions recommend this: 

  
 
2. Mark out the boning channels in a faint pencil line or tailor’s chalk.  

3. Cut boning to size and round the edges. I used heavy duty cable ties, but these aren’t historically accurate (obviously!) so wood or something more authentic would have been preferable. Metal boning probably wasn’t used. 

4. Sew your boning channels with small, neat stitches. I tended to do one side first, then push the ‘bone’ against the channels and sew the other side. For me, it was easier because I could adjust widths. 

5. This is where I sewed my bones:

  

 
I like the two at the back because they create a nice posture and add a little support overall. 

I also added a small bone at the centre front, on the other side of the eyelets.  This helps prevent stretching and acts as a more supportive busk. 

   


6
. Now to decide where to put the cording. My boning and cording pattern looks like this: (it is wildly out of proportion, but the bones are in blue and the cording in red). 

  
  I am considering adding more cording on the front, to ensure zero wrinkles.

My cording is not historically accurate at all, but is firm enough and I really like it. I might make a whole corset/pair of stays out of it at some point! 

  
7. This is how I sewed my cording: 

a) Sew one side of the channel for the correct/desired length. 

  

b) Insert the cording alongside the channel. 

   

c) press the cording up against the channel 

  
d) sew the cording in that position so it lies up against the channel snugly. Pinning it in place helps. 

 
 

8. This is what my cording looked like at the front in between the gussets:

  
9. And what the whole front looked like:

  
The question nagging at me is: should I add more cording to the bottom bit to ensure no wrinkles? I might add a little bit more. 

10. The whole stays with cording and boning looks like this:

  
Not too bad! 

Next up is binding the whole thing! Phew. 

  

Regency Chemise/Shift :June HSM. 

So, the June HSM is Out of Your Comfort Zone. 

This project was actually quite bizarre. I started it some weeks back as a Victorian chemise for my corset, but the shape wasn’t correct and I wasn’t very happy with it. I had cut it too slim, so I needed to add gores on the sides. 

I had thrown it aside, bored of French seaming the gores. I dug it back out yesterday and as it progressed, I decided it’s better suited to Regency. It is the perfect companion for my Regency stays. 

So, why’ s it eligible for the June HSM? Well, I’ve never made one before and although it was very simple, the endless French seams are boring and quite tricky. It was made trickier by the fact that my sewing machine is a bit off colour at the moment. It is reluctant to go over pins and stops and frantically sews teeny tiny stitches. So, although a bad work,an blames his tools, blah, blah, I actually do have a reason for the stitching to be uneven. 

Eventually I gave up on the sewing machine. I used it only for the bottom hem and the gores. The rest is hand sewn. I hated this project St first, but it’s grown on me as it has progressed, and I’m actually quite fond of it now. I may add some white work embroidery too, if I find time. 

   

  

  

The next photos are actually meant to be before the other ones, but WordPress was playing up, so chronological order isn’t happening. Sorry.   

Without sleeves. i considered leaving it like this.

  
  

The back drawstring

 I added the drawstring because I like being able to adjust the neckline, or add more ruffles to the front or back. Also, Marie (my dress form) has much narrower shoulders than me and the chemise was always slipping off.  

I added the sleeves because none of the period chemises were without some sort of sleeve, and I figures that this might give a little more volume to whatever is put on to of it. They look like small wings! 

The Challenge: Out of Your Comfort Zone

Fabric: cotton

Pattern: mixture of research and looking at period chemises, and my own pattern

Year: probably around 1800-1810 

Notions: linen thread, string (not sure what kind)

How historically accurate is it? Well, I’m not sure if the fabric is totally period, and it’s 50/50 hand sewn and machine sewn. Not sure that pattern is period either, but I think that it would be acceptable for the Retency period, so I’m going to say about 80% accurate. 

Hours to complete: ooh, tricky. Around 6ish? 

First worn:

Total cost: as usual, it’s all from my stash, so £0! 

Check out my Pinterest board!

Hi! Last night I spent some time creating a couple of new Punterest boards. Tip: If you love costuming, GET PINTEREST. There is a wealth of resources out there, available at your fingertips. Actually, even if you’re not such a fan of costuming or history, still get it because there is something for EVERYONE. It’s good fun and you’ll never be board again! (Get it?) 

Anyway, here are some links to my Pinterest boards. They are added to regularly so do follow me! 

http://pinterest.com/pinkpuss1234/18th-century-dress/.   My 18th century board

http://pinterest.com/pinkpuss1234/my-regency-board/.     My Regency board

http://pinterest.com/pinkpuss1234/my-1860s-board/.   My 1860s board

http://pinterest.com/pinkpuss1234/my-1870-1880s-board/. My 1870-1880s board 

 http://pinterest.com/pinkpuss1234/edwardian-fashion-i-love/.  My Edwardian board

http://pinterest.com/pinkpuss1234/undergarments-through-history/. Undergarments through history board


Have fun looking through them! 

 

Regency short stays part 3/HSM June Challenge

Here is the third part to my regency stays tutorial. I think we left off having fitted and pinned the three layers together. 

The next part is where it all comes together. 

1. Stitch ‘in the ditch’ on the inside of the gussets. It is easier to show you with a diagram. 

  
Try to make the stitches as small and neat as possible. Do this for all four gussets (three layers) 

2. Stitch ‘in the ditch’ (such a funny term, isn’t it?) along seams, with your stitching inside the seam so it is invisible. Again, small, neat stitches. My seams were all over the place and very mismatched so mine looks a little odd, but I stitched from the outside; it doesn’t really matter what the lining looks like. 

Do this for your side seams and your back seams. 

3. So, by now I think your stays should be three layers, stitched together in the gussets and along seams. 

Next, baste the layers together along the top and down the centre fronts. 

 
Basting stitches are loose running stitches used to keep the layers together while boning etc. 

Now your stays should look something like this. 

  

 

4. Next are the eyelets. The number each side of the centre front is up to you, but if you need more support then more eyelets are advisable. In front of the eyelets must go boning to help keep shape and act as a busk. 

What I did, was insert the boning where I want it to go and THEN position the eyelets around it. 

Eyelets positioning for stays is a bit odd because spiral lacing was used, so the holes are not symmetrical on both sides of the stays. 

This is what mine looked like. I had and inch inbetween each eyelet, except for the closer ones. 

 
Also be sure to make certain that your first and last eyelets aren’t going to be converted by binding. I know my eyelets are a bit messy and wonky, but I’m not really too bothered about aesthetic appearances.  

The spiral binding on my stays will go like this: 

 
My other pair of regency shorts stays bind like this and I find it works well. 

I’m sorry if this post wasn’t quite as great or in depth as my other ones…. This is as far as I’ve gone. The next step will be boning and cording, which is the Out Of Your Comfort zone part of the challenge!