Home » Historical Sew Monthly 2015 » Regency short stays part 4 – June HSM

Regency short stays part 4 – June HSM

So, here it finally is: the next part to my tutorial on the Regency short stays. This time I’ve done the cording and boning, which isn’t tricky, just very time consuming. 

1. Decide where you want your boning to be placed. 

The Sense and Sensibility instructions recommend this: 

  
 
2. Mark out the boning channels in a faint pencil line or tailor’s chalk.  

3. Cut boning to size and round the edges. I used heavy duty cable ties, but these aren’t historically accurate (obviously!) so wood or something more authentic would have been preferable. Metal boning probably wasn’t used. 

4. Sew your boning channels with small, neat stitches. I tended to do one side first, then push the ‘bone’ against the channels and sew the other side. For me, it was easier because I could adjust widths. 

5. This is where I sewed my bones:

  

 
I like the two at the back because they create a nice posture and add a little support overall. 

I also added a small bone at the centre front, on the other side of the eyelets.  This helps prevent stretching and acts as a more supportive busk. 

   


6
. Now to decide where to put the cording. My boning and cording pattern looks like this: (it is wildly out of proportion, but the bones are in blue and the cording in red). 

  
  I am considering adding more cording on the front, to ensure zero wrinkles.

My cording is not historically accurate at all, but is firm enough and I really like it. I might make a whole corset/pair of stays out of it at some point! 

  
7. This is how I sewed my cording: 

a) Sew one side of the channel for the correct/desired length. 

  

b) Insert the cording alongside the channel. 

   

c) press the cording up against the channel 

  
d) sew the cording in that position so it lies up against the channel snugly. Pinning it in place helps. 

 
 

8. This is what my cording looked like at the front in between the gussets:

  
9. And what the whole front looked like:

  
The question nagging at me is: should I add more cording to the bottom bit to ensure no wrinkles? I might add a little bit more. 

10. The whole stays with cording and boning looks like this:

  
Not too bad! 

Next up is binding the whole thing! Phew. 

  

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