I really have been meaning to post this, but I had no internet over the weekend, so things got delayed. Also, I lost motivation for a little while, but now I’m back, and ready for the HSM June Challenge, which are my stays.
The Historical Sew Monthly for June is Out of your Comfort Zone, and it requires you to try something new, like experiment with a new era or technique. I have actually made short stays before, but this time I will be using cording, which is a daunting yet exciting prospect.
So, without further ado, let’s continue on the Regency short stay tutorial.
1. Last time we left off with having sewn all of the gussets into our six front pieces, or however many you have.
Now, we start to connect everything. Iron and press the front pieces and set them aside.
2. Take you centre back and centre side pice for your interlining fabric, and pin them together.
Sew them together carefully. I would advise doing some practice on this first to avoid this happening:
I had a bit of trouble, okay, a lot of trouble, with getting the edges to lie flat. To remedy this, I rounded the sharp edges, which not only made it easier to sew, but it helped the fabric to lie flat. Bear in mind that my interlinking it coutil, which it naturally very stiff.
3. Repeat step 2 with the other centre side piece, and make any trimmings if necessary.
4. Now attach the front peace to the centre side piece as shown below.
Try to ignore the pencil line on my front piece. It will be erased.
5. Repeat this step for the other front piece and centre side piece.
Some patterns have the shoulder straps attached to the centre back or centre side pieces, so if you have a pattern like this, then you can probably ignore this bit with a sense of smug satisfaction.
To get the rough length, wrap your interlining layer around you as it would sit, and measure from the point where you want your shoulder straps to start at the back (it might be easiest to mark this point with a pin beforehand, or get someone to help you). Make sure you have enough room for your arm to be able to move well. You don’t want to be restrained when picking up a cup of tea!
Measure from this point to the top of your tab at the front and add an inch or two for safety. The width can be any width you desire, but I usually go for about 3 cm, which can always be trimmed and cut down.
You’ll need two straps for each layer of fabric, obviously, so I have six.
7. Pin the straps in place.
8. Now is a good time for a fitting. Use your interlining to ascertain if everything is right. Is it too wide? Too tight? Remember, there will be another two layers either side, and boning/cording. If something isn’t quite as snug as it should be, I’m afraid that you might have to unpick some parts of what you have. Make sure to make the necessary adjustments to your other pattern pieces too!
8. Repeat steps 1-5 for the other two layers and then pin them along the seam lines.
At this point your stays should look something along the lines of this:
Good luck! Comment thoughts below.